Bun breeds!?

[Royal]

I’m honestly stuck on what breed bun I would chose. I’ve been researching lots of breeds, but I’m still not sure what I want! I love the lop eared buns! They. R. So. Cute! I also want a bun that doesn’t grow like, super big. I like small/medium, fluffy animals. Also, since I do live in a rather cold climate, I would rather get a bun with thicker fluff. It doesn’t get very hot here, even in the summer. So anyways… yea. Any1 have suggestions on what is da best (opinion) bun breed around? thanks!

[Deleted User]

I have two Holland lop boys that I love to death. Like any bun, they are a handful. Lops you do need to be mindful of their ears as they tend to get infections and can’t clean them super good, so you should check their ears every few weeks. Hollands weigh between 2-5 pounds depending on true or false dwarf. Mine are both false and weigh just under 5 pounds. You can’t really tell till it’s near full grown what it will end up being, so don’t pick one that looks like it’ll be a true dwarf because you could be surprised. They don’t shed a ton, but they are on the fluffy side. And pretty darn cute if you ask me ?
I also really love Netherland dwarf buns. They are so little and adorable, but I will not be getting any new buns until these guys are over the rainbow bridge. Nethies are prone to teeth issues though.
Really research a breed before committing to one, unless you go to a shelter. But if you go to a breeder, definitely read up on breeds beforehand. Don’t just pick the cutest one because the cute ones can sometimes have issues that can require lots of vet care, and by vet care I mean $$$. And don’t believe the stuff you read about a breed having a certain type of personality. Because tbh every bun is different. One of my boys is a little snuggle muffin and the other one is an independent explorer. You really never know what you’ve got until you bring one home.

[Wick & Fable]

I’d say get an idea of what is the maximum size rabbit you can handle to rule out breeds that are not practical/you cannot provide for, then be open-minded to all other breeds when you adopt. I highly recommend adopting over purchasing from a breeder. Many breeders are poor quality, misinformed/purposely misinform, and generally keeping up the practice is what lands “healthy-looking” rabbits into pet stores. Rabbits at rescues and shelters are usually accompanied by slightly better informed staff, and you can get more honest answers about their upbringing and history.

Netherland dwarves are prone to dental issues. Wick is a prime example.
Wick is also an example of bad breeding; he was a runt and was ill when we got him, but no one informed us about it until we had him for a few days and it was very apparent. Additionally, there were no mentions about his immune system and jaw potentially being abnormal due to his runt-ness. I’ve also heard many instances of breeders recommending meat-rabbit diets (rabbits bred to be eaten), or just poor, out-dated diet beliefs, which have been corrected for the betterment of rabbit health and happiness.

The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.

[Ellie from The Netherlands]

Nice to see that you’re doing your research before getting a rabbit

We have a Netherland Dwarf rabbit (he’s not a full dwarf, but he has all the characteristics), and I’m a huge fan of the breed. Dwarf breeds are great fun (huge personalities in such tiny bodies), but can be prone to certain health issues like teeth troubles. In general they live longer than larger breeds, it’s not unusual for a dwarf to reach the age of 10-12 years. Dwarfs may be small, but they do require a large pen because they’re very energetic and they’ll need to vent that energy. Most pens sold at pet shops are the bare minimum for a night hutch, nothing more.
There’s a tendency for nervousness in the breed. It may seem like they have a convenient size to pick up, but they can put up a fierce fight if you do so. Dwarf rabbits have huge personalities which can be really fun, but also frustrating at times. They may be slower to trust you than larger breeds: I found that our Breintje is always a bit alert. He hardly ever flops or stretches out, which is a thing I’d hoped to see more.

You mentioned that you live in a cold climate. Do you intend to keep you rabbits outdoors? We generally advise people to let their rabbits live in the house, because of several reasons:

– Better protection against the climate
– Safe from predators (rabbits can even get a heart attack from a nosy neighbourhood cat)
– More interaction with your rabbits

You’ll really want to keep your rabbits indoors because of the last reason: more interaction. Rabbits are masters of hiding illness and discomfort, and the more you’re with eachother, the better you can notice subtle changes in behaviour. When a rabbit starts showing signs of illness it means that the illness is already getting pretty serious. You’ll want to notice odd behaviours very early to prevent things from going out of hand. Rabbits are very delicate animals and should be monitored often.
More interaction doesn’t only help to notice illness early on, it is the essence of having a rabbit as a companion. Rabbits are amazingly social creatures and will bond to you. You can have the same bond with a rabbit as with a cat or a dog. They’ll seek you out to play, cuddle, and many rabbits will even look after their owners if they are sick or feeling down. You’ll miss out on all of that if a rabbit is kept outside. It would be the same as keeping a dog or cat outdoors only: you’ll miss out on 90% of the fun.

Having rabbits indoors doesn’t have to mean that they need to get the full run of the house. I live in a small apartment with an open kitchen, and it would be unsafe for our bun to go everywhere. So we have this setup: we’ve bunny-proofed the sitting area of my living room. Our dwarf bun Breintje can roam freely during the day, and he has free access to his cage. At night he goes into the cage. He often joins me on the couch if he wants cuddles, and it makes him really happy to have his own little schedule. If I’m having a bad day or if I’m in a lot of pain he’ll seek me out and he’ll take care of me, it’s the cutest thing you’ll ever see.

Think about the possibilities of housing your rabbit(s) indoors, there’s a lot of advice on the forum here. Also, consider getting 2 rabbits if you’re away during the day. Rabbits are very social animals and need a lot of companionship to prevent depression. Depression can literally cut their lifespan in half, and it’ll lead to many behaviour problems. Shelters often offer bonded pairs, so you won’t have to go through the process of bonding rabbits.

[Royal]

Ok, cool! Thanks for ur guys’ suggestions! It’s so cool learning about how bunnies are, and their special, unique personalities! I am hoping to adopt a bonded pair, there are a few of them in some shelters somewhat near us. Btw, I am planning for them to be indoor buns, hopefully free roam around my new room. The new room is pretty big, so yay! More space! It also means I have more space to maybe put a cage up, for a few weeks until I know where the bun can get into mischief. Then I plan to let the buns free roam completely! (>.<)

[Royal]

Also, for lop eared buns, is there a way for me to clean the ears out once every week or so? Or you know, help prevent any ear infections some how?

[Deleted User]

For lops just check them for any redness or if they’re scratching too much. My boys have never had any issues (knock on wood) but it never hurts to give a good look. I use a little coconut oil on their ears if they look dry, but that’s it.

[caillou]

I have a lionhead that I love to death! I actually got him from a breeder, but he was very well informed and made sure I had everything before he would let me adopt, but next time I’d definitely go to a shelter, mostly because they always come neutered. Adopting a pair is ideal because it keeps the stress of bonding out of your life. My lionhead is double maned so he’s got a decent amount of fluff which takes a commitment to brushing! I brush everyday and if I don’t, his poops come strung out way more often and in thicker bunches, so I’m always brushing. Just something to keep in mind with longer haired breeds!

[Deleted User]

When you consider breed also consider grooming. The fluffier, fuzzier breeds will require more frequent grooming so make sure that is something that you’re up for

[joea64]

I have two rabbits that I’m pretty sure are of the American “Polish” breed (a reference to the shininess of their fur, not their country of ultimate origin); the British “Polish” rabbits are known in America as “Britannia Petites”. Interestingly, Netherland Dwarfs are the product of breeding between the (British) Polish bun and the European wild rabbit.

Anyway, the Polish rabbit is the smallest rabbit breed that’s not actually a dwarf. While I paid attention first and foremost to their compatibility with me – crucially, Fernando, the male, took such a liking to me on our first couple of meetings that he groomed me, something that’s extremely unusual between a rabbit and a near-stranger – I also took physical factors such as size, fur length, ear type and facial shape into consideration. The chief reason that dwarf rabbits are so prone to dental problems, assuming they get healthy diets with ample things to chew on, is that their faces are flatter than other breeds, which results in their teeth often getting out of alignment. That leads to problems like malocclusion and molar spurs. Also, while lop breeds are wildly popular – I did consider adopting a couple of lops for a while – their down-hanging ears require extra attention and care to prevent infections and such problems. Similarly, I chose a short-haired breed because they don’t need as much attention to groom (time is often at a premium for me because of my long work/commute days). That smaller breeds live longer than larger rabbits was another consideration, I want my buns to be with me as long as possible.

Oh, and definitely get a pair if you can. If you have to spend much of the day away from home, like me, company is a must for your bun. Also, as caillou says, getting an already-bonded pair skips the entire often-troublesome, often-long process of bonding.

[Dface]

The best breed is adopted!

I’ve had two lionhead X bunnies and an angora X
I would consider very carefully how much fur you can cope with because it is a serious amount, especially if they are in your room. Grooming is really important to help stop them getting sick and you need to really make sure they are eating lots of hay (fibre to keep their digestive system on track )
They are messier too-food, poop and pee can get stuck on their long coats ! So even ell behaved litter trained lionheads and angora bunnies can make a mess!
Fluffy bunnies look cute but can turn into a nightmare!!!

All Rabbits have very different personalities ! So it’s best to shelter visit to get an idea of the individuals they have there, and adopt a pair! Pairs are better if you work or have school /social commitments as rabbits crave companionship. Getting them already bonded is handy cause doing it yourself is a pain

[MochaTheBunny]

I suggest getting a holland lop or a Netherland Dwarf. They grow to about 3-5 lbs, and are easy to take care of. I myself have a holland lop, and I love him soooo much.    

[Sonn]

I would go visit a shelter or if they allow it set up some meetings with rabbits you think would be a good fit. I’ve had specific breeds in mind and ended up with a completely different breed when met rabbits at my local rescue.

[Author]

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