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BINKYBUNNY FORUMS

Forum BONDING New non-fixed bunnies

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    • LJTK
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        We are about to get two non-fixed bunnies that we’re hoping to bond. One is a 1.5 year old male. The other is a 1year old female. Obviously we will have them spayed/neutered before starting the bonding process. My question is what should the sequence of events be? The seller is very flexible about when and what order we pick up the bunnies. Do we 1) pick up both bunnies at the same time, have then fixed, start bonding process 5wks after surgery? Keeping them apart (and out of sight of each other?) while they heal and before starting the bonding? Or 2) pick up one bunny first, have her/him spayed/neutered, let him/her adjust to their new surroundings in our home, then pick up other bunny later (how much later?) and have it fixed, then let it adjust (in a separate area of the house?), then start bonding process? Will I need two separate crates/ex-pens? Two separate carriers to travel?

        We’re obviously new to this, and I want to make sure I’m doing it right. I’ve read a lot about bonding, but none with this scenario (introducing a new bun to an existing bun, bringing in two already fixed buns, etc). I’ve read bringing in two new buns makes bonding a much easier process since surroundings are new to both, but that’s if both buns are already fixed. Having to get these buns fixed kind of throws a wrench into the process and timing. I’m not sure of the sequence of events. I know spaying/neutering has to happen before bonding, but I’m not sure of much else.

        Please help! Any advice is welcome!!


      • Mikey
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          Both at the same time in different pens/cages in the same room, but far enough apart that they dont mate through the bars. Two separate carriers will be helpful to and from vet visits after surgery


        • Azerane
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            I’m with Mikey, bring them both home at the same time, that way the house belongs to both of them, not just one of them, and they are used to sharing right from the word go. Before you can introduce them, you can swap their cages and toys etc to get them used to each other’s scents etc in their own space.


          • LJTK
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              Thanks so much for your messages.
              Just some follow up questions:
              1- while they’re healing (before the bonding process), I’ll keep them in separate cages. But when they’re out getting their exercise, can they be together (supervised)? Or should they have time out of cages separately?
              2- is 5 weeks the correct length of time to wait before trying to bond them?
              3- when should the swapping cages occur? Right away? After the healing?

              Thanks again for all your help!!


            • Mikey
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                1. Completely separate until you can bond in neutral area You risk them fighting when you try to put them together without bonding. Fighting will make bonding harder and in the worst cases: impossible

                2. After being neutered 5 weeks is recommend as all hormones for males should be drained at that time. However, females can take up to six months for their hormones to drain. Hormones often cause rabbits to be more aggressive and territorial. If you feel your female is still hormonally driven after those 5 weeks, avoid bonding for another 2 weeks, then try again

                3. You can swap their cages/pens, toys, litter boxes, bowls, ect before they are neutered/spayed and 5 weeks after they are fixed to help bonding go faster as a prebonding tactic


              • LJTK
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                  Thanks for your message Mikey.  Couple more questions:

                  If they are kept in separate cages in the same room, and are given exercise time outside of cage at separate times but in the same area, does the bonding need to happen in neutral space? or can it happen in their shared (albeit separate times) exercise space?

                  Also, do the separate cages have to be similar in size?

                  Thanks so much for all your advice!


                • Mikey
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                    Bonding always has to start in a neutral area. Once they are fine (no aggression) in the small neutral area, go to a larger neutral area, then once they are good there you can start to bond their shared area

                    Being similar is size is best so when you swap them they dont feel like theyve been moved someplace totally different

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                Forum BONDING New non-fixed bunnies