general new bunny questions

[mayayoung]

Hi all! In case you didn’t see my last post, I’m Maya, and I will be a first time bunny owner soon! I have some general questions about litter training and new bunnies etc. Sorry in advance ~ most of these questions are very oddly specific, and maybe sometimes dumb! 

 – Do I need to buy a bunny carrier for my bunny’s first trip home? If not, could I just use a cardboard box with some air holes?

 – When I my bunny first gets home, I know I’m supposed to “put” my bunny in its cage to allow it to settle in. However, I’m sure I’ve read in a few places that I’m not meant to physically carry my bunny in and out of its cage, so to let them know they have full control and reign over their area. But how am I meant to transfer my bunny into the cage from the carrier to the cage without having to carry them into it? Am I meant to let them walk in themselves? I can imagine some bunnies would be to nervous in a new environment to move, though. (sorry this question is so oddly specific!) 

 – To litter train a bunny, I know I’m meant to set up a litter box and wipe up any accidents immediately and put them in the box. But to be able to do this be able to spot any accidents immediately, wouldn’t I have to be very closely observing my bunny all the time? I would be happy to closely watch my bunny for their first few hours home, but considering litter training takes days and sometimes weeks, I don’t think this would be very time effective nor realistic.

 – On a similar note, I wouldn’t be able to watch my bunny while I’m at school. Does anyone have experience with litter training while not being home for a good part of the day? There will be someone else at home all day though, maybe they could help?

 – I’ve seen conflicting advice on this, so I thought I’d ask. When my bunny first gets home and they are settled in their cage, should keep the cage door shut, or leave it open? According to the shelter, the bunnies are already litter trained, but given a new cage and litter box in a new environment, I’m sure there’ll be some accidents. I can’t imagine most bunnies would want to come out and explore even if I left the cage door open, so maybe this wouldn’t be an issue?

 – I know rabbits don’t like to be picked up. Just as a matter of interest, would sitting on someone’s lap be a different story? Or maybe if they were sitting on the floor? 

 – As I’m going to visit the shelter tomorrow to meet my ideal bunny companion: Would lop rabbits be a bad choice for a first time bunny owner? Do bigger rabbits actually “better” temperament (less aggressive etc) than dwarf rabbits? I’ve also read somewhere that male bunnies are generally more easy-going than female bunnies (presumably non-spayed/neutered). Would this apply to de-sexed rabbits as well? And lastly, are long haired bunnies significantly harder to groom?

[joea64]

1) I’d recommend a proper carrier over a box. You’ll probably be driving home, so it’s important to keep your bunny safe and secure in the car and a carrier is a lot better for that than a cardboard box.

2) When Panda and Fernando came to live with me, their foster mom opened up the carrier they’d been riding in on the floor next to their new condo’s access door, and we gently coaxed them into it. Offering them treats to help “lure” them into their new home is definitely something to try.

3 and 4) My buns are littertrained, so I can’t offer any specific advice there.

5) For their first couple of days in their new bunny condo, I left Panda and Fernando to themselves with the doors closed and secured, only opening them up to refresh their food and water. I waited until their second day home to set up the X-pen for their first “outside” play session.

6) Let the bunny decide when she wants to come up in your lap, don’t try to force it. You want to do daily “floor sessions” with them to get them comfortable to your physical presence; don’t try to pick them up unless you really have to, and let them set the pace for when and whether they want to be petted. Basically, just sit or lie there quietly, get on your phone or tablet or read a book or watch TV or whatever, and let them explore you and check you out.

7) The key thing about finding a bunny companion, more than anything else, is their personality. Do they react in a particularly friendly way to you, or do they seem more than usually standoffish, for example? One of the crucial factors in my adopting Panda and Fernando – possibly even the crucial one – was that Fernando was extraordinarily affectionate toward a near-stranger, going so far as to groom me on a couple of occasions. Their foster mother said it was the first time she’d ever seen a rabbit groom a potential adopter!

With that being said, you do want to think about care issues such as type of ears and length of fur. Lop breeds need more work with their ears than upright-ears types, because those floppy ears can be more prone to infections and irritations (and English lops’ very long ears, dragging on the floor as they do, can be easily injured without care). Long-haired bunnies usually need daily brushing; short-haired bunnies require much less frequent brushings except when they’re moulting/shedding. Bigger rabbits have a reputation of being quieter and more easy-going than small rabbits, who tend to be very active and energetic, but the tradeoff is that small rabbits often live longer than large rabbits. I don’t think aggression depends on size; Fernando, who like his mother Panda is a Polish rabbit (the smallest non-dwarf breed) is exceptionally sweet-natured (both of them have been spayed/neutered).

[Wick & Fable]

– Do I need to buy a bunny carrier for my bunny’s first trip home? If not, could I just use a cardboard box with some air holes?
— If you can get a carrier, that’d be best, since you’ll want one eventually. If time or cost is an issue, a cardboard box with a fleece blanket or something cozy inside will work temporarily. Don’t be surprised if it gets soiled during the ride though, and be sure to secure the box so it’s safely in place. For purchasing a carrier, there are many topics about choosing the best one, so search this website and peruse to see what works best for you and your bun.

– When I my bunny first gets home, I know I’m supposed to “put” my bunny in its cage to allow it to settle in. However, I’m sure I’ve read in a few places that I’m not meant to physically carry my bunny in and out of its cage, so to let them know they have full control and reign over their area. But how am I meant to transfer my bunny into the cage from the carrier to the cage without having to carry them into it? Am I meant to let them walk in themselves? I can imagine some bunnies would be to nervous in a new environment to move, though. (sorry this question is so oddly specific!)
— A lot of people say “never carry your rabbit unless you have to!”. Personally, I pick up and carry Wick multiple times a day… like, literally all the time, to get him away from the kitchen, if he’s being a bit clingy, etc.. For transferring, I think carrying is the easiest option, but the other method is baiting by waving a treat and such. This will be partially on you though, in terms of how well you can carry a rabbit. You need to be confident and provide a good foundation so your rabbit doesn’t feel too insecure, but at the same time, you need a good hold so your rabbit, if squirming, does not fall. There are stories unfortunately of rabbits who fall from owners arms and are injured, potentially fatally. If you’re nervous, I recommend never fully standing when carrying— to a crab walk or knee-walk of sorts. The most hands-off method is to block off a path and open the carrier on one side, so when your rabbit exits, all it can do is go in the cage. That’s probably the best way in the beginning.

– To litter train a bunny, I know I’m meant to set up a litter box and wipe up any accidents immediately and put them in the box. But to be able to do this be able to spot any accidents immediately, wouldn’t I have to be very closely observing my bunny all the time? I would be happy to closely watch my bunny for their first few hours home, but considering litter training takes days and sometimes weeks, I don’t think this would be very time effective nor realistic.
— Yes, you must watch that bottom like a hawk. As an owner, you can do training periods when it fits your schedule. Since rabbit nature has a tendency towards using the restroom in the same spot, not doing it 24/7 will not “erase” progress; you’re simply letting the rabbit know where the best place is. Admittedly in the first few weeks, you need to be much more attentive, spend much more time cleaning, and monitoring in order to make sure your rabbit is getting it. He/she may not need any training, or may never pick up training. Either way, be patient.

– On a similar note, I wouldn’t be able to watch my bunny while I’m at school. Does anyone have experience with litter training while not being home for a good part of the day? There will be someone else at home all day though, maybe they could help?
— Since you go to school it.is.CRUCIAL that BOTH you and those at home understand your rabbit’s care. This means, have others from your household be involved with reading responses to these posts. School takes up a good chunk of the day, so anyone with contact with your rabbit should be as informed as you on its care, behavior, tendencies, etc.. In terms of the actual question, see my response above — plan training periods when you can, and have those at home monitor and clean accidents in a timely manner.

– I’ve seen conflicting advice on this, so I thought I’d ask. When my bunny first gets home and they are settled in their cage, should keep the cage door shut, or leave it open? According to the shelter, the bunnies are already litter trained, but given a new cage and litter box in a new environment, I’m sure there’ll be some accidents. I can’t imagine most bunnies would want to come out and explore even if I left the cage door open, so maybe this wouldn’t be an issue?
— If you and your household is rabbit-proofed and rabbit-ready, you could leave it open and let your rabbit explore. Regardless of litter training, he/she will probably still mark around in such a big new area. Personally, I recommend letting your rabbit roam in an area slightly larger than the cage (X-pen around the cage), see how the potty-habits are, then expand to free-roam when you think he/she is ready. It will also be good so you can gauge how exploratory and curious the rabbit is, and how this may affect your levels of rabbit proofing.

– I know rabbits don’t like to be picked up. Just as a matter of interest, would sitting on someone’s lap be a different story? Or maybe if they were sitting on the floor?
— This will be based on a rabbit’s personality, and also the comfort of your lap, haha. Never force a position onto a rabbit, so if you find your rabbit mosey-ing around your crossed legs and you want to offer that leg support and its welcomed, then sure! Every morning and evening, Wick takes his nap at the crook of my leg while I’m sitting cross-legged on the floor eating breakfast/dinner.

– As I’m going to visit the shelter tomorrow to meet my ideal bunny companion: Would lop rabbits be a bad choice for a first time bunny owner? Do bigger rabbits actually “better” temperament (less aggressive etc) than dwarf rabbits? I’ve also read somewhere that male bunnies are generally more easy-going than female bunnies (presumably non-spayed/neutered). Would this apply to de-sexed rabbits as well? And lastly, are long haired bunnies significantly harder to groom?
— Males are generally more easy-going, and neutering is less risky than spaying, but all in all, rabbit personalities differ, regardless of size and species. In a very large generalization, I will say Netherland Dwarves have large personalities and they are divas my goodness. Wick is such a diva, knowing to pee right in front of me when he’s upset I’m not giving him treats, haha. There are many stories on these forums of Flemish Giants being mean and nice, Lops being mean and nice, and dwarves being mean and nice. It’s great you’re going to a shelter to engage with the rabbits so you can try and judge the personalities yourself. As a solid piece of advice, I’d say if your household tends to get really rowdy, there are small children, or people who are not too attentive, stay away from small rabbits, as free-roaming small rabbits can get under your feet so quietly and instantaneously that kicking and stepping on them is a very real danger. Wick has been kicked against a wall, like 3 times by me for the first few months I had him. He’s fine, but my goodness do I look where I step constantly now.

…. and bloop: http://www.instagram.com/wick_theboogeyman
— Here’s Wick’s instagram page if you want to see a litterbox suggestion, my litterbox cleaning routine (an older post), and how a free-roam rabbit can assimilate in a home.

The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.

[mayayoung]

Posted By Wick on 9/08/2017 9:19 AM

– Do I need to buy a bunny carrier for my bunny’s first trip home? If not, could I just use a cardboard box with some air holes?
— If you can get a carrier, that’d be best, since you’ll want one eventually. If time or cost is an issue, a cardboard box with a fleece blanket or something cozy inside will work temporarily. Don’t be surprised if it gets soiled during the ride though, and be sure to secure the box so it’s safely in place. For purchasing a carrier, there are many topics about choosing the best one, so search this website and peruse to see what works best for you and your bun.

– When I my bunny first gets home, I know I’m supposed to “put” my bunny in its cage to allow it to settle in. However, I’m sure I’ve read in a few places that I’m not meant to physically carry my bunny in and out of its cage, so to let them know they have full control and reign over their area. But how am I meant to transfer my bunny into the cage from the carrier to the cage without having to carry them into it? Am I meant to let them walk in themselves? I can imagine some bunnies would be to nervous in a new environment to move, though. (sorry this question is so oddly specific!)
— A lot of people say “never carry your rabbit unless you have to!”. Personally, I pick up and carry Wick multiple times a day… like, literally all the time, to get him away from the kitchen, if he’s being a bit clingy, etc.. For transferring, I think carrying is the easiest option, but the other method is baiting by waving a treat and such. This will be partially on you though, in terms of how well you can carry a rabbit. You need to be confident and provide a good foundation so your rabbit doesn’t feel too insecure, but at the same time, you need a good hold so your rabbit, if squirming, does not fall. There are stories unfortunately of rabbits who fall from owners arms and are injured, potentially fatally. If you’re nervous, I recommend never fully standing when carrying— to a crab walk or knee-walk of sorts. The most hands-off method is to block off a path and open the carrier on one side, so when your rabbit exits, all it can do is go in the cage. That’s probably the best way in the beginning.

– To litter train a bunny, I know I’m meant to set up a litter box and wipe up any accidents immediately and put them in the box. But to be able to do this be able to spot any accidents immediately, wouldn’t I have to be very closely observing my bunny all the time? I would be happy to closely watch my bunny for their first few hours home, but considering litter training takes days and sometimes weeks, I don’t think this would be very time effective nor realistic.
— Yes, you must watch that bottom like a hawk. As an owner, you can do training periods when it fits your schedule. Since rabbit nature has a tendency towards using the restroom in the same spot, not doing it 24/7 will not “erase” progress; you’re simply letting the rabbit know where the best place is. Admittedly in the first few weeks, you need to be much more attentive, spend much more time cleaning, and monitoring in order to make sure your rabbit is getting it. He/she may not need any training, or may never pick up training. Either way, be patient.

– On a similar note, I wouldn’t be able to watch my bunny while I’m at school. Does anyone have experience with litter training while not being home for a good part of the day? There will be someone else at home all day though, maybe they could help?
— Since you go to school it.is.CRUCIAL that BOTH you and those at home understand your rabbit’s care. This means, have others from your household be involved with reading responses to these posts. School takes up a good chunk of the day, so anyone with contact with your rabbit should be as informed as you on its care, behavior, tendencies, etc.. In terms of the actual question, see my response above — plan training periods when you can, and have those at home monitor and clean accidents in a timely manner.

– I’ve seen conflicting advice on this, so I thought I’d ask. When my bunny first gets home and they are settled in their cage, should keep the cage door shut, or leave it open? According to the shelter, the bunnies are already litter trained, but given a new cage and litter box in a new environment, I’m sure there’ll be some accidents. I can’t imagine most bunnies would want to come out and explore even if I left the cage door open, so maybe this wouldn’t be an issue?
— If you and your household is rabbit-proofed and rabbit-ready, you could leave it open and let your rabbit explore. Regardless of litter training, he/she will probably still mark around in such a big new area. Personally, I recommend letting your rabbit roam in an area slightly larger than the cage (X-pen around the cage), see how the potty-habits are, then expand to free-roam when you think he/she is ready. It will also be good so you can gauge how exploratory and curious the rabbit is, and how this may affect your levels of rabbit proofing.

– I know rabbits don’t like to be picked up. Just as a matter of interest, would sitting on someone’s lap be a different story? Or maybe if they were sitting on the floor?
— This will be based on a rabbit’s personality, and also the comfort of your lap, haha. Never force a position onto a rabbit, so if you find your rabbit mosey-ing around your crossed legs and you want to offer that leg support and its welcomed, then sure! Every morning and evening, Wick takes his nap at the crook of my leg while I’m sitting cross-legged on the floor eating breakfast/dinner.

– As I’m going to visit the shelter tomorrow to meet my ideal bunny companion: Would lop rabbits be a bad choice for a first time bunny owner? Do bigger rabbits actually “better” temperament (less aggressive etc) than dwarf rabbits? I’ve also read somewhere that male bunnies are generally more easy-going than female bunnies (presumably non-spayed/neutered). Would this apply to de-sexed rabbits as well? And lastly, are long haired bunnies significantly harder to groom?
— Males are generally more easy-going, and neutering is less risky than spaying, but all in all, rabbit personalities differ, regardless of size and species. In a very large generalization, I will say Netherland Dwarves have large personalities and they are divas my goodness. Wick is such a diva, knowing to pee right in front of me when he’s upset I’m not giving him treats, haha. There are many stories on these forums of Flemish Giants being mean and nice, Lops being mean and nice, and dwarves being mean and nice. It’s great you’re going to a shelter to engage with the rabbits so you can try and judge the personalities yourself. As a solid piece of advice, I’d say if your household tends to get really rowdy, there are small children, or people who are not too attentive, stay away from small rabbits, as free-roaming small rabbits can get under your feet so quietly and instantaneously that kicking and stepping on them is a very real danger. Wick has been kicked against a wall, like 3 times by me for the first few months I had him. He’s fine, but my goodness do I look where I step constantly now.

…. and bloop: http://www.instagram.com/wick_theboogeyman
— Here’s Wick’s instagram page if you want to see a litterbox suggestion, my litterbox cleaning routine (an older post), and how a free-roam rabbit can assimilate in a home.

 Thank you so much for the detailed answer! I’ll be sure to follow your tips 

[mayayoung]

Posted By joea64 on 9/08/2017 9:11 AM

1) I’d recommend a proper carrier over a box. You’ll probably be driving home, so it’s important to keep your bunny safe and secure in the car and a carrier is a lot better for that than a cardboard box.

2) When Panda and Fernando came to live with me, their foster mom opened up the carrier they’d been riding in on the floor next to their new condo’s access door, and we gently coaxed them into it. Offering them treats to help “lure” them into their new home is definitely something to try.

3 and 4) My buns are littertrained, so I can’t offer any specific advice there.

5) For their first couple of days in their new bunny condo, I left Panda and Fernando to themselves with the doors closed and secured, only opening them up to refresh their food and water. I waited until their second day home to set up the X-pen for their first “outside” play session.

6) Let the bunny decide when she wants to come up in your lap, don’t try to force it. You want to do daily “floor sessions” with them to get them comfortable to your physical presence; don’t try to pick them up unless you really have to, and let them set the pace for when and whether they want to be petted. Basically, just sit or lie there quietly, get on your phone or tablet or read a book or watch TV or whatever, and let them explore you and check you out.

7) The key thing about finding a bunny companion, more than anything else, is their personality. Do they react in a particularly friendly way to you, or do they seem more than usually standoffish, for example? One of the crucial factors in my adopting Panda and Fernando – possibly even the crucial one – was that Fernando was extraordinarily affectionate toward a near-stranger, going so far as to groom me on a couple of occasions. Their foster mother said it was the first time she’d ever seen a rabbit groom a potential adopter!

With that being said, you do want to think about care issues such as type of ears and length of fur. Lop breeds need more work with their ears than upright-ears types, because those floppy ears can be more prone to infections and irritations (and English lops’ very long ears, dragging on the floor as they do, can be easily injured without care). Long-haired bunnies usually need daily brushing; short-haired bunnies require much less frequent brushings except when they’re moulting/shedding. Bigger rabbits have a reputation of being quieter and more easy-going than small rabbits, who tend to be very active and energetic, but the tradeoff is that small rabbits often live longer than large rabbits. I don’t think aggression depends on size; Fernando, who like his mother Panda is a Polish rabbit (the smallest non-dwarf breed) is exceptionally sweet-natured (both of them have been spayed/neutered).

Thanks so much for replying I’ll be picking a bun based on personality for sure.

[mayayoung]

update: I’ve visited the shelter and applied for my bunny! The form asked for a first choice, second choice and a third choice bun. I’ll be sure to share some pictures if anyone is interested!

[mayayoung]

update: I’ve visited the shelter and applied for my bunny! The form asked for a first choice, second choice and a third choice bun. I’ll be sure to share some pictures if anyone is interested!

[RC92]

Posted By mayayoung on 9/09/2017 4:25 AM

update: I’ve visited the shelter and applied for my bunny! The form asked for a first choice, second choice and a third choice bun. I’ll be sure to share some pictures if anyone is interested!

Good luck with your choice, don’t worry which bun you get though – I genuinely believe as long as you make them feel loved, as with every animal, every bun can be an amazing friend and family member. 

In regards to a carrier, if finances allow I would recommend a proper carrier (doesn’t need to be expensive). If you use a cardboard box, make sure to line bottom with absorbent material – if your bun soils the box it will weaken the structure of the bottom and could easily fall through with the weight of the bun. We have used proper cardboard moving boxes in the past for our buns litter area and the bottom weakens significantly after one or two urinations. Carriers will also be more cost effective in the long term as you’ll keep needing to source boxes every time your bun needs to travel.

If you are using a cardboard box it may be best to check with the shelter if this is okay. The breeder we got Rolo from won’t allow her buns to leave unless it’s a proper carrier; fortunately we were using a cat carrier anyway as we didn’t know prior. That may have just been personal preference, but better to not risk getting there and needing a carrier!

Looking forward to seeing your bun 

[mayayoung]

Posted By RC92 on 9/09/2017 1:23 PM

Posted By mayayoung on 9/09/2017 4:25 AM

update: I’ve visited the shelter and applied for my bunny! The form asked for a first choice, second choice and a third choice bun. I’ll be sure to share some pictures if anyone is interested!

Good luck with your choice, don’t worry which bun you get though – I genuinely believe as long as you make them feel loved, as with every animal, every bun can be an amazing friend and family member. 

In regards to a carrier, if finances allow I would recommend a proper carrier (doesn’t need to be expensive). If you use a cardboard box, make sure to line bottom with absorbent material – if your bun soils the box it will weaken the structure of the bottom and could easily fall through with the weight of the bun. We have used proper cardboard moving boxes in the past for our buns litter area and the bottom weakens significantly after one or two urinations. Carriers will also be more cost effective in the long term as you’ll keep needing to source boxes every time your bun needs to travel.

If you are using a cardboard box it may be best to check with the shelter if this is okay. The breeder we got Rolo from won’t allow her buns to leave unless it’s a proper carrier; fortunately we were using a cat carrier anyway as we didn’t know prior. That may have just been personal preference, but better to not risk getting there and needing a carrier!

Looking forward to seeing your bun 

thanks for the tips  I think I’ll buy a carrier from the shelter ~ they sell all kinds of rabbit supplies, including second hand cages and carriers! I think that would be a good way to cut costs, as well as support the shelter, which runs entirely on donations and merchandise selling (since adoption is free!).

On the topic of soiled carriers, should I line the it with something to soak up any accidents? Would a puppy pad work (I have no idea where I’ll find one of those though)?

[ThorBunny]

Puppy pads are good, but I always just use towels or dish cloths to cover the bottom of my carriers! Fleece is a good alternative too, although some fleece is not too absorbent.

Good luck with your new bun! Can’t wait to see pictures

[Boston's Mama]

I personally would get a carrier , if you get the plastic cat kind that the top half unclips you could place the carrier in his cage/ pen when you get home and remove the top , that way he can use the carrier as bed or safe place ( familiar since he arrived home in it ) and this will make it easier to get him in it again next vet visit. Also makes getting him in an out without lifting him easier ( in future you could pop a treat in there to entice him in )

We all need to be able to pick bun up when nessassary but save that for when you must
He needs to learn he can trust you so laying on the floor with him and letting him climb over you , associate your hands with good only ( feeding and pats ) rather than scary things like being “captured” is important in the trust building.

Litter training should be easy if he’s using one at the shelter, they are naturally clean animals and want their toileting in one corner – it’ll just be about learning his corner – sometimes it’s not the corner we Hoomins choose and they let us know
If you notice he is peeing in a differnet corner – move your tray there. If he is using your tray corner AND another corner – add a second tray to that corner ( he will eventually choose one and you can remove the other after some time )
If he wees different places then clean it up asap and use a 50% white vinegar 50% water mix to clean it up as it is safe and it disguises the smell so he doesn’t keep going back to it

[Boston's Mama]

Until you know if bunny is a chewer I wouldn’t use puppy pad or a towel ( towel fibres don’t break down easily like fleece does )
I used a cheap washable fleece blanket for mine ( fleece tears but they can’t pull thin threads off it as it doesn’t unravel so it’s safer – still remove it if you notice they are eating any though! ) and put hay on top
Any accidents you can machine wash the fleece and reuse
I line my boys pen with fleece blankets , as a baby he peed on them but in the machine with some sensitive non fragranced powder and it’s clean again
He no longer has accidents and the fleece is soft on his feet so no sore hocks or anything

[joea64]

Posted By Boston’s Mama on 9/11/2017 7:48 AM

Until you know if bunny is a chewer I wouldn’t use puppy pad or a towel ( towel fibres don’t break down easily like fleece does )
I used a cheap washable fleece blanket for mine ( fleece tears but they can’t pull thin threads off it as it doesn’t unravel so it’s safer – still remove it if you notice they are eating any though! ) and put hay on top
Any accidents you can machine wash the fleece and reuse
I line my boys pen with fleece blankets , as a baby he peed on them but in the machine with some sensitive non fragranced powder and it’s clean again
He no longer has accidents and the fleece is soft on his feet so no sore hocks or anything

Where would a good place be to get inexpensive fleece blankets? One of them would be good to line my buns’ new pet carrier with, and I’m thinking I’d also like to give each of them something comfy to lie on at home.

[Boston's Mama]

Polar fleece should be everywhere ( I’m a different country to you so don’t know exactly ) do you have a fabric shop near you? Should be cheap by the metre and you can just cut it to size as it doesn’t fray
Polar fleece also comes in pet blankets already made – or baby blankets
Just get 100% polyester

[mayayoung]

Hi everyone! Thanks for all the replies again. It’s so nice to have a community full of experienced & helpful people to give me tips. I have another question: Do I need a hay rack for my bun? I know what if I were to get one, I should place it on top of the litter box. But would it be okay if I just got a slightly larger litter box and put hay in it? If I were to do so, should I put hay in one half, and litter in the other half of the box? Or should I stuff my litter box full of hay?

[joea64]

Posted By mayayoung on 9/12/2017 9:18 AM

Hi everyone! Thanks for all the replies again. It’s so nice to have a community full of experienced & helpful people to give me tips. I have another question: Do I need a hay rack for my bun? I know what if I were to get one, I should place it on top of the litter box. But would it be okay if I just got a slightly larger litter box and put hay in it? If I were to do so, should I put hay in one half, and litter in the other half of the box? Or should I stuff my litter box full of hay?

I have a hay rack too. It’s situated above the litterbox on the lower level of the bunny condo, just to the right of where I usually pile the fresh hay. I place a large handful of hay in the rack, often refreshing/swapping it out twice daily. Panda and Fernando don’t make use of the hay rack to nearly the same degree that they attack the hay piled in their litterbox, but I’ve often seen one or the other of them nibbling at the hay contained therein. Also, Panda (mostly) has a habit of going to the upper deck of the bunny condo and nibbling at the hay in the rack, often pushing aside one of the hidey boxes to do so. I think they may be having some difficulty getting at the hay in the rack through the condo cube grids, so at the next hay refresh I’m going to see about pushing some of the hay through so the buns can get at it more easily.

[Wick & Fable]

It’s nice to do a hay-rack hanging in the litter box for some rabbits, as some will dig around the hay and end up peeing on a lot of it. Wick gets a handful at one side of the box, which I recommend to prevent hay becoming soiled.

The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.

[joea64]

Posted By Wick on 9/12/2017 1:03 PM

It’s nice to do a hay-rack hanging in the litter box for some rabbits, as some will dig around the hay and end up peeing on a lot of it. Wick gets a handful at one side of the box, which I recommend to prevent hay becoming soiled.

I’ve got to work on that myself, though I’m not sure that I’m not doing anything wrong or not. Over the first three weeks, I’ve laid down an inch or so of Carefresh, then a layer of hay on top of that, and have piled hay at one end of the box (it looks quite comical to see one of the buns burrowing into said pile for a particularly tasty strand). Over the course of several days, the two rabbits tend to spread the hay they don’t eat around, and a lot of it gets soiled. I wish not quite so much hay got spoiled/wasted, but I’m not sure what to do apart from trying to get them to eat more from the hay rack (maybe buy a second hay rack and put it on the other side facing the litterbox, and pull the hay through the cube grids to make it easier for them to get at it)?

[Wick & Fable]

I do a lot of -pushing over- and even physical re-adjusting of Wick when I see he’s sitting on hay, haha. Generally he does pretty well, but I think soiled hay is an inevitability. If you commit time to constant monitoring, you can dissuade it a bit, but it may be a negligible amount in the end.

The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.

[mayayoung]

thanks for the useful advice, everybody! I think what I’ll do is try to purchase a wire rack, and if I manage to find one I’ll probably stuff that with hay but also leave some hay on one side of the litter box to see what my bun prefers.

If you guys don’t mind helping me out again, I have another question What’s your daily bunny schedule, particularly feeding, grooming and cleaning? For the litter box, how often should I change its contents completely? If hay looks relatively un-soiled and bun is still eating it, could I just throw out the litter section and just add fresh hay without throwing away the old hay? How often do you groom your buns? And if you have a cage, how often do you take everything out and completely wipe it down with vinegar and water? I know these have probably been asked time and time again, but I’m just hoping for even more answers

On the subject of my bun, the shelter still hasn’t contacted me about my application I did call to ask and they said they usually contact applicants within 10 days, and it’s only been 4. They did also say that they contact their applicants whether or not it’s successful, but I’m just so anxious to have my bunny!

[Wick & Fable]

Wick’s schedule:

11PM-5:30AM – Wick is in his hutch, next to my bed.
5:30AM – I wake up, go to the kitchen, get a bowl of veggies and put it by his water bowl in the living room.
5:45AM – I let Wick out and he goes to eat his veggies.
5:45AM-6:15AM – I take out hay from both his litter boxes, recycle what I can. I clean both boxes’ litter screens with vinegar spray. I scoop out the soiled litter only. I spray and wipe the soiled portions of the litter box only if I see urine has caked on a bit from overnight. I refill the litter, replace the screen, and put in a mix of old/new hay from my haybox.
6:15AM-6:30AM – I go to the bedroom, close the door, and clean Wick’s hutch. All steps above from the litter box cleaning applies. Any place where pee has landed gets wiped with vinegar spray.
6:30AM – I exit the bedroom and give Wick an Oxbow Veggie Treat. While he’s eating it, I dump and freshen his main water bowl in the living room.
6:30AM-7:40AM – I eat breakfast, get ready for work, all the while petting Wick whenever. He needs a good kickstart of hay for the day, so I take out and refresh his 2 litter box hays at least twice during this time period so he gets a good fill of his favorite bits. Time consuming, by reaps good benefits for his hay appetite for the rest of the day. I also check his private parts/poo-hole once per day during this time, just to make sure nothing looks bad.

7:40AM-6:30PM – I’m gone at work, but Wick gets to go around free-roam of the apartment. If it’s a day he seems intently anxious about me leaving, I leave the TV for some whitenoise. Usually a show I watch when I’m there.

6:30PM – I find the least-soiled litter box, take out all the poops and soiled hay, and refresh the hay. I do not scoop out dirty litter or clean the screen unless it’s physically wet on the surface. Wick won’t use an overly soiled litter box. He always pees in the same corners of the box, so I need to look at the absorption of those corners, rather than the entire thing. His urine never hits 90% of the box. Once I’ve freshened the cleanest litter box, I take a scoop of pellets and plop it in there.
6:45PM-7:00PM – While he’s eating pellets, I do the same surface-level cleaning to the second litterbox. I check his hutch, though he doesn’t make a mess of it during the day, so I usually don’t need to do anything. I’ll take this time to freshen the hutch’s water bowl, since I don’t do that in the morning. I also go around and find any stray poos.
7:00PM-8:30PM – Chill time. We usually nap on the floor together.
8:30PM – Depending on how he’s acting, he’ll get either the rest of his veggies, or I will mix in fresh orchard hay with all his litter box hays, to entice him to eat hay for the remainder of the day.
9:30PM – I do whatever I didn’t do at 8:30PM (give veggies or add orchard hay).

9:30PM-sleep time – I scoop out poos from his litter boxes occasionally so they’re clean for him to keep using. I’ll pet him and he usually takes a power-nap about an hour before I decide to go to bed.
Sleep-time – I put him in his hutch and he stays there until the next morning.

— I will intend to groom Wick whenever we’re having a pet session. I use my fingers and gently tug around where I see some loose fur. If nothing comes up, then I won’t groom him. If stuff does, I’ll groom him as long as he’ll let me or until I can’t find anymore loose tuffs. I groom with my hands, not a brush.

— Nail clipping comes during the weekends, where the schedule is pretty much the same, minus work, so instead of being at work, I’ll be at home consistently refreshing hay and picking up poos. I’ll check his nails, and if they’re a bit long, I’ll snip a little bit. Doesn’t happen too often.

The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.

[joea64]

Panda and Fernando’s schedule (Monday – Friday, weekends are a bit different):

9 pm – 4 am: the buns are in their condo, several feet away from my bed (I can often see them on the upper deck, snoozing or watching me)
4 am (usually a few minutes before): Refresh hay in the litter box and hay rack. Empty the water bowl, rinse it and refill it, then place it in the condo under the ramp. Prepare their breakfast bowl of Oxbow Adult Rabbit Food pellets, 1/4 cup total (1/8 cup per rabbit). Give them their breakfast treat when they’re done. Make sure the condo doors are secured before I leave for work.

4:30 am – 5:30 pm: The buns have the day to themselves and each other, with plenty of hay and fresh water to call on. They spend the bulk of the day snoozing, often in one of the two hidey boxes on the upper deck or in their litterbox.

5:30 pm: Return home from work. Check the buns to make sure they’ve passed the day OK and haven’t had any injuries or accidents. Refresh the hay in the litterbox and hay rack. Wash out the salad bowl and prepare their supper, 4 cups minimum of spring mix (at least 2 cups per bun). Set up their X-pen while they’re eating, connecting the two ends to the condo and opening the lower-deck front access door.

5:30 pm – 9 pm: Evening play/exercise/socialization time. When they’ve finished supper, the buns are free to roam around between the condo and the X-pen, making use of the hidey box, tunnel and toys (hay-stuffed TP rolls, etc.) I have at least one lengthy “floor session” with them during which I sit or lie on the floor and give them the opportunity to explore me, check out my smells, climb over and around me, etc. Pets are offered during this time if the buns appear to want them/be receptive. Hand out treats a couple of times, either Simple Rewards or fresh herbs, during this time. They actually often spend a fair bit of time in their litterbox during this period, eating their evening hay (while I’m not around on weekdays during the dawn hours, they’re eating their hay then as well).

9 pm: Panda and Fernando have their bedtime around this time. They’re gently herded back into their condo, the access door is secured, and the X-pen is taken down and folded up.

Every 2 to 3 days: Throw out the used litter and soiled hay and refresh the hay and litter.

Every week: Clean the condo (both decks) with whisk broom, Dust Buster and white vinegar; clean out the litterbox with white vinegar. The buns get brushed and checked over for any health issues.

Weekend schedule is similar except that breakfast may be later and Panda and Fernando get a lot more time out in their X-pen.

[Sirius&Luna]

Wow! I can do a slightly less detailed version – I have two unbonded (as of yet!) bunnies living in adjacent pens.

6.30 – boyfriend gets up and lets one bunny out to run around the living room (except mostly they just flop)
7.30 – I get up, put bunny 1 away and let the other bunny out. They both have hay boxes next to their litter trays, which I tip back into the big hay box, mix around then refill. I clean and and refill water bowls.
8.30 – both bunnies away, with a bowl of veggies each to console them. The younger bunny gets a small amount of pellets too.
6.30 – home from work, hay is topped up and bunnies let out for alternate hours.

11 – Both bunnies put away, hay is topped up, fresh water is added and another bowl of veggies each.Younger bun gets another portion of pellets. 

At weekends its generally the same, but with more time out.

Litter boxes are emptied every other evening, and pens given a quick tidy every evening. Every 3/4 days I’ll remove everything and clean thoroughly.
Older bunny gets her tablespoon of pellets hand fed as treats throughout the evening.

I also just pull out any fur tufts with my hands. Nail clipping is every other weekend.

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