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Forum HOUSE RABBIT Q & A New Bunny Questions

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    • SpeedyTomato
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        First of all, I want to say this forum as been a huge help over the last couple weeks.  I found it on a web search for an issue i was having.  Just now registering.

        A little background…

        I took a bunny from some friends who were raising him and another for meat (please read that carefully as he’s now a treasured member of my family and I love him to death!).  It;s been many a year since i had a rabbit (I was small and we lived on a farm at the time.  We always had pet rabbits but they were outside), so am playing catch up with what I’m doing here.  He’s a male, but that’s all I know.  Not sure the breed, though he looks smaller than most i see on the board here, and I have no clue his age.

        Checked the recent threads, and saw nothing about what I’m going to ask, so here i go!

        Remus (the bunny’s name-Remus Lopin) has never been outside his cage other than to be held a bit.  He has one of those huge double-doored dog cages (the large size) another thread had a link to, so he has lots of room.  He’s quite a friendly guy and has been since I took him.  He eats from your hand and no nips, lets you pet him, curls up when you hold him, all of it. The people who had him said he acts more like a puppy than a rabbit, the reason they wanted to give him a good home rather than use him for what they bought him for (it involves a funny story about an escaping rabbit who returns like a dog would and waits patently at the sliding glass door to be let in for his food and some snuggles)  As he’s not been outside his cage other than small amounts of time, I’m trying to assimilate him a bit at a time by doing it for short stretches.  

        We’re doing 15-20 minutes at a time.  He’ll do a bit of investigating but then comes back over to me.  I’m trying to just reassure him and let him know he’s safe, then let him roam.  Tonight I let him out in the bedroom and he basically hid.  It took me a bit to get hold of him to put him back ( I am too old and fat to chase a rabbit around the house, trust me LOL!).  Of course, I gave him snuggles, pets and talked to him.  I make sure i talk to him a lot, pet and touch him as I go by his cage and all that all the time. His cage is right by my desk, where i spend most of my time, so i talk to him a lot, reach over and pet him, rub his nose (something he seems to love) and all that.  

        I do have two cats, but they aren’t an issue.  Remus even nuzzles the nose of the one and they sniff each other with no aggression while he’s in his cage.  Pockets is 17 and so calm you wonder if he has a pulse most of the time.  The other one, Squeebles, who’s about 14, avoids Remus like the plague and is scared of him.  So, the cat’s aren’t the issue.  I think the problem is it’s so ‘big’ out here and he’s not used to it. As I don’t want to make him live his life in that cage, i want to let him out.

        Is there anything I can do to ease the way more and not have a frightened bunny while he’s out or just keep going like I am?

        The next question I have is about the cage.  When I got him, they just had a thin layer of newspaper down with nothing but his food bowls in it.  I’m using a mixture of newspaper and magazine pages on the bottom for now with tons of hay.  He seems to adore this and loves tearing through it to get it just right.  His litter box is in there of course.  Have some toys and chewy things in there, but he ignores those.  Is there anything else i need?  Like old towels or whatnot for the bottom?  And how do I get him to use the chewy bits as I know he needs to chew to keep his teeth in good shape.  

        Final question (sorry, am trying to keep it short!) is about litter. The feed place down the road where i’m getting his hay and food said a lady who has rabbits uses turkey feed for the box as it’s all natural and very absorbent.  They said it works better than any litter out there.  Is this safe?  She thinks it is and has had rabbits for years.  I’m assuming and i think it’s a good option, but want an opinion first.

        Thanks for being patient with the n00b  and my questions!


      • tobyluv
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          Hi and welcome to Binky Bunny! It’s wonderful that you were able to rescue this rabbit and give him a loving home. Some rabbits, due to their backgrounds, can be very wary of life outside of the cage. It’s good to go slow and to limit his range at first. If there are areas where you don’t want him going, as in under your bed, you may have to block them off or just not let him go in those rooms yet. You will need to bunny proof any rooms he is in. Most rabbits are bad chewers. Electric wires are some of their favorite things. You can get wraps for them or put them up or block them off somehow. They may also chew on furniture, rugs, baseboards, books, etc., so watch out for that. I think that time and patience will allow your rabbit to feel at ease in your house.  Even though he is in a large cage, you may want to get an x-pen for him.  Those are roomier than cages, and allow you easier access to the rabbit.

          Some rabbits don’t care that much for toys or chew things, or might prefer paper towel cardboard rolls, plain or stuffed with hay. You have to be careful with what materials you use around rabbits, since most will chew on things. Fleece blankets are safer than towels because they don’t have the long strings in them that towels can have. A towel would be fine in a carrier on a trip to the vet, but for everyday use or use in the cage, fleece is better.

          You could have a box for him to use as a hidey hole when he is out in your house. Then he might choose that rather than under your bed. Rabbits prefer boxes with 2 exits, so that they don’t feel trapped. The best boxes are those from a store that might have held produce, if you can get those. They are strong and don’t have tape on them. Turn them upside down, then cut an arch shape out on each end. It’s fun for bunnies to run through and to feel safe in if they need that.

          Regarding litter, I think that turkey feed would be very bad, as it likely contains corn and you don’t want your rabbit eating that. Here is an article about litter that we have at the Sanctuary where I volunteer:

          What To Use In Your Rabbit’s Litter Box

          Remember that rabbits may sit in their litter boxes for extended periods, and that they nibble on everything, so it’s important to choose the right litter.
          Do not use cedar or pine shavings. These contain dangerous aromatic oils that have been found to cause liver damage and respiratory problems. Don’t use CatWorks, a litter made from oat hulls, which when ingested has caused fatal zinc poisoning. Swheat Scoop Litter should not be used since rabbits will often ingest it. It is comprised of wheat, is very high in carbohydrates, and can cause obesity, excessive cecal production, diarrhea and other health issues. Don’t use clay litter. The dust causes respiratory problems, and if ingested, it is harmful to the digestive tract. Don’t use any clumping litters–if nibbled on, they are likely to cause obstructions in the intestinal tract. Also avoid corn cob litter. If eaten, it can cause a lethal intestinal blockage.
          Recommended litters:
          1. Newspaper, shredded or cut-up. It’s inexpensive and readily available, but it offers no odor control. If the newspaper is cut into larger pieces, urine may puddle at first until it is absorbed into the paper, which could cause your rabbit to have damp feet. It can be composted.
          2. Paper pulp litter. It has low dust, good absorbency, and no hazards, though it also offers little odor control. It can be flushed or composted. Brands include Carefresh, Yesterday’s News, Cellu-Dri, and Eco Fresh.
          3. Oat, alfalfa and wheat straw based pellets. Low dust, good absorbency, and no hazards, although they can cause bloating if too much is ingested. They can be flushed or composted. Brands include Critter Country, Cat Country, and Oxbow Eco-Straw.
          4. Compressed sawdust (pine) pellets. Unlike pine shavings, these are safe, since they have no dangerous aromatic oils. They are economical, highly absorbent, and have good odor control. They may be composted. Brands include All Pet Pine, Feline Pine and Exquisicat.
          5. Aspen bark, pellets or shredded. Highly absorbent, with good odor control. Pellets are economical , because it only takes a thin layer in the litter box. They may be composted. These larger pellets are good for long haired rabbits, since they don’t get stuck in their fur as easily as the small particle litters. Brands include Aspen Fresh, Gentle Touch and Aspen Supreme.
          6. Straw or hay. Straw can be dusty and is not very absorbent, but has no hazards, unless it becomes moldy. Any of the grass hays can be used. Be sure to clean frequently, as your rabbit will also be eating the hay. It may be composted.
          7. Wood stove pellets. These are compressed pine or hardwood pellets. Make sure that the pellets are plain and that they don’t contain accelerants. These are very economical. They come in large bags and are inexpensive. They can be found in home supply or tractor supply stores.
          8. Horse stall pellets. They are compressed sawdust (pine), also very economical. Found in feed stores, home supply stores, or tractor supply stores. One brand is Equine Pine.

          If you change to a new litter, your rabbit may hesitate to use it. Mix some of the new with the old, or put some of the dirty litter into the new litter. Daily cleaning of the dirty areas is best. Regularly dump out the whole contents of the box, and thoroughly clean with an organic cleaner or a natural cleaner, such as vinegar or baking soda.
          Many of these litters are available in pet supply stores, grocery stores, or discount stores. Litter, food and other rabbit supplies can be ordered online from drsfostersmith.com, wag.com, bunnybytes.com, petfooddirect.com, binkybunny.com, leithpetwerks.com, or various other pet supply catalogs and websites.

          Feel free to ask any other questions that you have. Binky Bunny members are always helpful.


        • SpeedyTomato
          Participant
          42 posts Send Private Message

            Thank you for your most excellent advice! I’m going to take it.

            I’m trying the cardboard rolls for the chewing (making all my friends give me theirs LOL) but no dice. He’s not going for it. Stuffed them full of all kinds of bits and he’s not tempted. I’ll find something. With it being winter, I can get some logs easily enough (untreated, I know–these come from locals who cut them and don’t spray or treat them with anything) and am going to try that.

            Will get the pen there. Or something similar. Actually trying to get my hands on a pack n play or old fashioned play pen as i thought those would give him what he needs and are safe until i can get the pen. The boxes i can do as i have a ton as the cats love them.

            Thanks for the list! Some I can’t get my hands on for litter, but I can feline pine! Doing shredded newspaper and lining the bottom of the litter pan with thick magazine pages to help. The smell I’m not worried about as I change them often enough (deal with two cat boxes so this isn’t new here).

            Thanks ever so much for you help! Wasn’t sure on some of this and going by what I can get my hands on while trying to remember what we did when i was young almost 40 years ago LOL


          • tobyluv
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            3310 posts Send Private Message

              You are welcome. Regarding the logs/tree limbs, some are safe and some are not safe for rabbits to chew on. The two that are always listed as safe are apple twigs and willow twigs. They don’t have to be dried or cured or anything – of course, they shouldn’t have been sprayed with any pesticides. There are some other branches that you can use, but they may have to be dried first. You can find lists of safe and not safe tree varieties by doing some Google searches.


            • SpeedyTomato
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                Thankee! Applew ood is easy to get around here the same with willow. Was going to make sure there.

                Would old like sweatshirts work for a time for the blanket? They have the fleece lining (no spare blankets of that sort around here, so looking until I can get my hands on them)

                Thank you very much for your help.


              • Bam
                Moderator
                16869 posts Send Private Message

                  Just keep an eye, if he eats the sweatshirts it’s not good, since they have threads. Take them away if he does and replace with old newspaper until you can get fleece, paper is ok for them to chew in reasonable amounts. But if you give him apple twigs and -branches, he might chew them instead which is good and safe. My buns love apple twigs!


                • SpeedyTomato
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                    Will do! Was going to turn the fleece side out and figured that would work until i can get my hands on some. Apple twigs i can easily do and he’ll have some in a couple of days

                    Thanks again for your most excellent help!

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                Forum HOUSE RABBIT Q & A New Bunny Questions