Just a few basic questions..

[BaileyBunny]

 1.] I let my rabbit hop around my (bunny proofed) room. He’s litter trained when it comes to his cage, but when he’s out and about he poos everywhere. How can I really enforce the litter training?

 

2.] He’s a bit aggressive, with the slapping and whatnot when I try to take his food bowls to feed him.

 

3.] Why does he stay under my bed when i let him out? He hops out every now and then, but mostly sleeps/lays down/eats the walls under there.

 

4.] Where do I get/What are they called – Those little square griddy metal things i can build my own bunny cage with? I need to get him a bigger cage for when I’m at work.

 

5.] How do I get him to be more social/like me more?

[Eucalyptus]

1. It’s possible that he thinks the entire room is part of his territory, and he’s leaving poop around to make absolutely sure that everyone knows it’s his. Even our amazingly trained bunny will leave a poop every once in a while when he’s really happy and enjoying his time around the apartment.

2. Is he neutered? Bunnies are much more aggressive before they get fixed. If he is, it’s possible that you just have a very territorial bunny (a lot of buns get really upset when their enclosures get cleaned). I don’t have any advice about how to help this problem, unfortunately. My first and only bun is super laid back and the most he does is nose bump or try to throw the dust pan while I’m sweeping around his house.

3. Bunnies tend to find “spots” that they like best. Java has a few spots that he will ALWAYS retreat to after zooming around. Sometimes there’s an obvious reason (like Java laying directly under the a/c because he’s always hot), and sometimes it’s just a spot they like. They tend to also try and do some “interior designing” in those spots, which is why some bunnies will chew and pull on carpet or eat the walls in those spots. Also, bunnies tend to test chew certain things while exploring.

4. Pretty sure you’re referring to NIC cubes. You can usually find them at places like Target. Just make sure they have the 1″ spaces and nothing larger.

5. How long have you had him? You can try hand feeding him his salads, and definitely hand feed him treats/fruit. If he’s a little skittish, you’ll have to be patient. Try getting on the floor with him and letting him approach you on his terms. Reach a hand out (slowly) and see if he’ll go up to you. The more skittish he is, the more patient and gentle/slow you’ll have to be. Just try spending as much time with him and make sure it’s always a positive experience. Depending on how territorial he is (based on #2), you can try to sit with him while he’s grazing in his box and just watch him or talk to him.

Hope at least something from this helps!

[PurpleBunni]

I only have one peice of advice to add… Is there someone who can watch your bun while you handle his food bowls and cleaning his things? Many animals with “dens” or nests are prone to becoming agressive about protecting their spaces, so separating them is often the best solution.

[NewBunnyOwner123]

Sally was really aggressive when it came to feeding time and I was given the advice by another forum to have two bowls that you switch out. You place the bowl with food in the cage and while he is busy munching, you grab the empty bowl. And just use the empty bowl for next feeding and so forth. I’m not sure if I explained that right but it worked like a charm.

Now that Sally has been spayed, she never boxes, lunges, or growls anymore during feeding time. *phew* glad that phase was over with!

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

1.] I let my rabbit hop around my (bunny proofed) room. He’s litter trained when it comes to his cage, but when he’s out and about he poos everywhere. How can I really enforce the litter training?

Let him hop around a smaller area. He’s claiming it as his own, so baby steps. When he poops pick it up and put it in a box. Adding multiple boxes helps too. Not sure if he’s fixed but that will go miles in terms of litter training.

2.] He’s a bit aggressive, with the slapping and whatnot when I try to take his food bowls to feed him.

Don’t put your hands into his cage when he’s in there. He’s being territorial. You’ll inevitably jerk your hands back if/when he hurts you and that will reinforce it. He’s letting you know he’s not comfortable AT ALL with your hands in his pen/cage with him in there. So do his food/water when he’s out. Fixing, if he isn’t yet, will definitely help this.

3.] Why does he stay under my bed when i let him out? He hops out every now and then, but mostly sleeps/lays down/eats the walls under there.

They like a safe place with a roof. Under the bed is perfect. You can block it off if you like. Keep an eye because under the bed becomes their territory and they may rip up your mattress and/or flooring under the bed!

4.] Where do I get/What are they called – Those little square griddy metal things i can build my own bunny cage with? I need to get him a bigger cage for when I’m at work.

Almost anywhere! They are in the home organization section of walmart, home depot etc. Ask for bookshelves and closet organizers (not wire cubes) if your looking to ask a clerk for assistance.

5.] How do I get him to be more social/like me more?

Give him time. Again if he’s not fixed, getting him neutered will help tons. Make sure you are associated (i.e. the boss of) out time, treats, and food. Don’t try to hold him or approach him. Be near him, but let him do the approaching. Give him treats when he’s brave.
Dogs love everyone. Cats will make you work for it. Rabbits will make you slave and grovel for it But it’s definitely possible.

[FlemishMom]

Lots of good answers and information there. I am not sure where you are located. If you are further out in the country, a farm store might be closer; they also have metal grid panels usually with little clasps that you buy a special wrench to fix on and pans that go underneath for catching stray litter.

I have heard that with aggressiveness towards hands coming into the hutch, it’s usually worse where it is a top-opening hutch. It may be you just need to give him more time to welcome you into his territory by moving slowly, letting him know you are there, letting him smell and see your hand before you move very quickly. I have never really had a top-opening hutch; having heard that, all my hutches have always opened fully on one side to allow easy access for cleaning and handling. . . . Neutering a male may help with this; if it is a female, it may help even more with it because for some reason they often get more sensitive about the food dishes.

One way to think about socializing with a rabbit is to remember he is an animal of prey— the more secure he feels, the more sociable he will be because he won’t be worrying about figuring out which direction to run, etc. In a group of bunnies, the MOST secure bun is the Dominant bunny . . . so fill your rabbit with confidence and let him think he is the dominant bunny. I once read a great article about this. It is the non-dominant bunny who comes up to the Dominant bunny, bows its head and asks for the pirvilege of grooming the Dominant bunny, then the Dominant bunny gives its permission. You can mimic this process yourself using your hand. Getting down on the rabbit’s level and extending your hand low, close to the floor, near him, you are understood to be asking permission to groom— to pet him. Just start out petting on his nose–there are very sensitive nerves above the ridge of the teeth that find petting there very pleasurable. As your relationshp strengthens, he will allow you to pet further back on his body. . . . Take your time. Let the rabbit beguile you.

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