Am I giving my bunny the right amount of food?

[MochaBunny]

Hello!
I am quite concerned about the amount I feed my 7 month old, 5.5 lb bunny, who is a mini/french lop.
I give him unlimited Orchard Grass Hay, 1/4 cup of Oxbow pellets – mix of alfalfa and timothy, and 1.5 cups packed, chopped vegetables (dandelion greens, cilantro, bok choy, carrot tops, and one baby carrot) a day.
He seems to be the right weight, although when I look at him from the side, he has a bit of fat on his arms. When I look at him from above, he has a pear-shaped body.
I was just wondering if I feed him too much or too little, or just the right amount.
Thank you so much! (:

[peppypoo]

Welcome to the forums! If you click the “BUNNY INFO” link near the top of the page, there’s a bunch of great information on a lot of things including how much food your bunny needs. I definitely think you should check it out .

It’s recommended that bunnies shouldn’t be given alfalfa hay past 6 mos. because it’s rather high in protein which is good for a younger bun but not necessary for a regular diet.

[MochaBunny]

Thanks (: I will definently check it out!
I give my rabbit only alfalfa based pellets and timothy based pellets mixed – I give him Orchard Grass Hay.
Do you think I should stop giving him alfalfa based pellets??

[Sarita]

I would stop the alfalfa based pellets at this point.

[hopsalot]

That’s excellent variety and a good enquiry. I’ve also consulted many a thread about this topic since I think my Pie is underweight. I can’t get hold of more than half the things listed under nutrional and dietary requirements in this forum (and elsewhere on the net) though I still worry about it on a daily basis. I have, however, consulted a vet (every vet has a different opinion though) and was reminded that although nutrition is extremely critical for buns, one should also consider your bun’s build (associated with breed) and their level of activity.

Breeds such as the rex and english rabbit have a naturally slender build and one can easily feel their bum bones even when standard weight, as opposed to heftier breeds. If you own a mixed breed, you’ll soon be able to judge whether your bun is stubby and big boned, or light and slender bone structure as they approach adulthood.

As for level of activity, take into consideration that a young bun uses far more energy and should not be putting on excess weight while growing. It’s more than often the case that buns become a bit more laid back when grown up, and even more laid back if neutered or spayed. Does your bun spend a lot of time roaming free or is it confined to a smaller space during it’s active hours (sunset and sunrise)?

My advice is to:

1. Stick to what the recommendations say about what and what not to feed. If you are in the lucky position to get hold of most food items listed, make use of the variety. Stay away from things that are listed in the ”not recommended” section as a rule of thumb. If you are faced with something not in the list of recommended food items and you’re not sure if your bun can eat it, rather be safe and don’t add it to your bun’s diet. There should be dietary requirement discussions tailored to the needs of a young bun still approaching adulthood.
2. Stick to the rule of #cups of veggies per body weight. That accommodates for differences in breed size and is easy to manage with the eye.
3. Stick to routine feeding times. Bun’s are most active at sunrise and sunset, and those are the times to provide them with their fresh greens and veggies. I feed veggies/greens twice a day and provide an unlimited supply of Cuni Complete pellets and fresh mountain hay (only hay I can get hold of here). If I talk about ”veggies/greens” I refer to 1 food item that supplies Vitamin A (carrots or brocoli are good candidates), carrot tops and a choice of two herbs (parsley, basil, coriander, thyme, rosemary, dill, sage, mint, watercress) per meal. My bun roams free and has access to grass when let outside. Too much green is no good, but grazing for grass roots and playing outside is. It works well for Pie.
4. Judge your own bun’s weight according to it’s level of activity and natural build.
5. When in doubt of food or digestive problems – listen for a healthy rumbly in your bun’s tumbly and check for a constant supply of poops in the litter box. Non-rabbit owners are guaranteed to think you have an unhealthy obsession, but those two factors are the two most important indicators of illness and health problems.

Happy feeding!

[MochaBunny]

Okay, thank you for all the replies! I will now stop the alfalfa based pellets and give him timothy pellets instead.
Oh, and I give my bunny at least 6 hours outside his cage.

[hopsalot]

Sounds good! Remember to post a lot pics so we can study your bun’s cuteness factor in detail

[Author]

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